Bariloche, Argentina

San Carlos de Bariloche, usually referred to as Bariloche, is located in the northern region of Patagonia in Argentina that sits on the southern shores of Nahuel Huapi Lake. It is a common tourist destination for skiing and trekking in the mountains!

Getting there:

A bus from Buenos Aires to here is very long (21+ hours) and not all that cheap. I recommend planning ahead because if you plan enough in advance you can find cheap flights (only 3 hours from BsAs), which is definitely worth it. Once you get to the airport there is a public bus that comes every two hours that can take you to town or you can cab. If you choose to take the bus make sure you buy your tickets before inside the airport and then wait outside for the bus. There isn’t really a bus stop and you might start to get nervous that no bus is really coming, but it will. Things in Argentina and all of South America for that matter tend to be on the slower more laid back side as anyone who travels down there will come to find out quickly.

Gear:

I would definitely suggest serious hiking gear if you are looking to do two or more day treks. However, when I went I was very under prepared and stuck to more beginner trails, but they were still extremely breath taking. Make sure you bring a backpack to fill with supplies you may need during hiking and wear warm clothes that you can layer. You start to get very hot while hiking, but then once you get to the top you are hit by a serious temperature drop and in order to really appreciate the view it’s nice to be able to put your layers back on and relax comfortable before you make the journey back down.

Transportation in Bariloche:

There are public busses, but they don’t run that often to all the outside hiking areas so you must plan in advance what busses you will be needing to take and the times that they come. Also you must buy your bus tickets in advance at the bus terminal located on Moreno Street. If you become impatient waiting for the bus, as I sometimes do, it is common and safe to “hacer dedo” (hitch hike).

Hiking: There is an information center in town that provides great advice as to what hikes are the best for you depending on the gear and time you have and the season of course. Below are the hikes that I did when I went in mid-February.

Lago Guiterrez: This is a pretty flat hike so you don’t reach as high of altitudes as many of the other ones, but there is a quaint little waterfall and cool little wooden bridges that make you feel as if you are in a hobbit land! The trail dropped us in Cerro Cathedral where we were then able to catch a bus back to town.

We didn't get the best weather, but with our ponchos protecting us from the rain we were still able to enjoy the scenery 

Cerro Cathedral: Is famous for having great skiing slopes during the winter, but when there is no snow you can hike up the summit. You can take a bus from town to get here, do some hiking, and then once you are finished you can grab a bite to eat or some hot cocoa while you wait for the bus back to town. 

Cerro Campanerio: a quick 45-minute hike to the top with a spectacular view. Once you reach the top there is a restaurant and gift shop, so it is definitely more of a touristy, beginner hike. If you are feeling really lazy, but want a view there is a gondola that also runs to and from the top of the mountain.

View from Cerro Campanerio

Bahia Lopez: An 8 km steep hike to Rufugio Lopez. Parts of the trail are not very well marked, but it is a popular trail among hikers so you are likely to make a friend along the way. Rufugio Lopez can be your final destination before the climb back down or depending on how ambitious you are, you can hike (or more appropriately climb) another 2 km to the summit. I HIGHLY recommend this; just make sure you wear warm clothes because it is extremely cold when you reach the summit. It is an incredible experience! You are so high up that you feel as if you are in an airplane looking at the tops of clouds with the world beneath your toes.

Refugio Lopez 

Trekking my way up to the summit!

Arriba del mundo!

Other Activities: Bike and kayak rentals are also fun things to do when the weather is warm and of course skiing and snowboarding is a must if you visit during winter. Also, just walking around the town, browsing in the markets is fun!

Cool street ark work in the center

Accomadations:

The House Hostel: cheap, near a bus stop, supermarket and walking distance to all the restaurants, shopping, and bars in town. The staff is very friendly and knowledgeable. A breakfast of freshly baked medialunas from a local bakery and coffee is included. There are many hostels in the area, but this one is cheap and great!

Street view of House Hostel

Very comfortable and affordable private rooms!

Hotel Llao Llao: expensive resort, but even if you can’t afford to stay there it is worth it to go explore the property. You can take a bus from town or try and hitch hike—whichever one proves successful first!

The picturesque setting of Hotel Llao Llao

Eats:

After a tough day of hiking you must get fondue—the town of Barioloche is known for its cheese fondue, fine chocolates and homemade beer (reminds me a lot of Zermatt, Switzerland)

La Marmite: Great cheese and meat fondue! This restaurant is located on Mitre Street, and is so warm and cozy. This is a perfect place to recoup and reward yourself after a long hike.

So much cheese!!!

Bachmann: my favorite cerveceria in Bariloche. They are known for artesanal beers, specifically their frambuesa beer (strawberry). Not a typical flavor you’s think of for a beer but it is wicked good! Located at 1348 John Oconnor street, this bar away from all the main bars and restaurants so it is a real local joint. The beer is quality and the pizza isn’t to bad either…what more could you ask for!

Frambuesa cervezas y pizza

Antares: A chain bar/restaurant (also have two in Buenos Aires) but this place does have a great happy hour that is hard to turn down!

Wilkenny: most popular late night bar/club that attracts both locals and tourists.

There are many other restaurants and a few nightclubs, but I was always too tired at night after hiking all day to stay up past 11pm!

Besos!

Punta Daily Schedule

Now that you know the best of the best of Punta del Este, let me give you a quick run down of a typical agenda of a Punta del Este vacationer:

• 2:00pm-Wake up, throw on your bathing suit and get ready for the day           
• 3:00pm-Have a little breakfast of toast and dulce de leche
• 4:00pm-Start to make your way to Bikini Beach
• 5:00-8:00pm-Have a few caipiroskas, mingle, and dance (in that order of course!)
• 8:00pm-Leave the beach and head to a restaurant for some lunch
• 9:00pm-Head home for a nap
• 10:30pm-Shower and get dressed for the night
• 12:00am-Have dinner and drinks with friends
• 3:00am-Make your way to a boliche, preferably Circus (formerly known as Tequila)
• 7:00am-Circus closes, but there are still places open for late night eating (or I guess in this case early morning eating)
• 2:00pm-Wake up and do it all over again!

Bikini Beach

Besos y Suerte!

Punta del Este

Punta Del Este

There is a reason that Punta del Este is commonly referred to as the “Hampton’s” of South America and the “St. Tropez” of the South of France. It attracts only the most beautiful, elite and posh crowd with its expensive real estate, flashy nightclubs and bars, and overpriced, well everything. Word of the wise: don’t come to Punta del Este without having some money to spend. During high season (summer) expect to pay 40-60 US dollars per person per night to stay in a dorm style hostel…I wish I were kidding. Nonetheless, it is worth EVERY penny. I am certain that there is no other place in the world like this glamorous vacation town with the most thriving nightlife scene that I have ever experienced.

Getting there: There is an airport in Punta de Este (PDE), but flights directly there tend to be expensive. I think taking the ferry from Buenos Aires is the best way to go. There is a fast ferry (a little more expensive) and a slow ferry that travels to Colonia, Uruguay and then from there you take a 4-hour bus ride to that drops you in the Center of Punta. There is a ferry about $70 US dollars each way.

• Book ferry tickets at: http://www.buquebus.com/cache/HomeARG.html

Once you get there it would be recommended to try and rent a car, but that’s not always the easiest thing to do and can be expensive. Walking from La Barra to Manantiales is manageable and for other locations there are taxis available, public buses, and it is completely safe and accepted to “hacer dedo” (hitch hike). You will come to find that Punta del Este is a very safe and trusted community.

Beaches: The two best beaches are Bikini Beach and Jose Ignacio, both of which are located pretty far from the center. Bikini Beach is 30 minutes by car outside the center located in Manantiales and Jose Ignacio is about another 30 minutes past Bikini Beach—the public bus does go to both beaches from the center but it is VERY slow.

Playa Bravo: stop here on your way out of the bus station, take a tourist picture with “los dedos” and then get on the next bus and head towards Bikini or Jose Ignacio Beach. Definitely not where the cool locals go.

Bikini Beach: this is where you will find the crazy day beach parties (usually start around 4-5pm) and TONS of Brazilians. My advice: grab a caipiroska or a beer and join the dance party.

Jose Ignacio: more mellow and exclusive than Bikini Beach, this is definitely where the elite hang out. I would have to say that this is the prettiest beach in Punta del Este, which makes it no surprise that you will find some of the most beautiful people working on their tans here.

Sights:

Casapueblo: Located outside the center in the opposite direction of La Barra, this is an old house of the famous Uruguayan artist Carlos Páez V. Now it has been turned into a museum, an art gallery, and even a hotel, Hotel Casapueblo. Casapueblo depicts the traditional Punta Del Este Architecture.

We rented this little Buggy for the day in the Center for around $125 US dollars and were able to tour around the area--definitely recommend for those who get bored sitting on the beach all day!

Stay:

I recommend staying in either La Barra or Manantiales. If you are concerned more with beach day partying then Manantiales is the spot for you since Bikini Beach is just steps away. If you are interested in a variety of nightlife spots and willing to walk (1 hr.) or hitch hike to Bikini Beach during the day, then La Barra is the spot for you.

UY Hostel: My first choice and is located near all the hot spots of La Barra! (I also stayed at Backpackers, below, and this place was much cleaner and in a more convenient location) It has a kitchen, air conditioning, not to mention the staff is excellent.

Backpackers De La Barra: about a 20 minute walk to the heart of La Barra, but this hostel has a restaurant and pool and stays pretty quite.

Manantiales Hostel: Clean with a friendly staff. About a 10 minute walk to Bikini Beach and the main strip of Manantiales.

Renting a house: a great option if you plan ahead and know that you will be traveling with a large group of people since many of the rentals in Punta are on the pricey side. A good website to check out is: http://www.apuntavamos.com/

Eats:

Medialunas Calientes: Even if you are not a pastry/sweet person you’d be crazy not to try one of their fresh, hot out of the oven medialunas (the South American version of a croissant). Located in La Barra right across from UY Hostel. Also right next to this gem is a place that sell dulce de leche filled churros—for me the medialunas were my first choice, but some days I just couldn’t choose between the two and had to get both!

Nuna: An AMAZING Peruvian restaurant in the La Barra region of Punta Del Este. It is not walking distance because it is located down a dirt road in a neighborhood area, but the ambiance and ceviche are to die for!

Cerro: The most posh pizza parlor you will ever go to! They are known for their pizza, but they also have a variety of other things to choose from (the salmon and chicken dishes were “muy rico”). Cerro is located on the main street of La Barra and is also a great place to grab a drink outdoors before you head down the street to Tequila (a club).

La Huella: A fish restaurant located right on the sand of beautiful Jose Ignacio Beach, so it is a bit of a drive if you are staying in the Center, La Barra, or Manantiales. If you are looking for a South American Celeb sighting, you are sure to find one here. The ambiance makes you feel like you are in the Caribbean Islands and the food is some of the best that Punta Del Este has to offer. Once again I recommend the ceviche.

Rex’s Chivito: The best Chivito in town. These sandwiches are the Uruguayan specialty. It’s a piece of Lomo (thin slice of filet minion) with mozzarella, ham, and a hard-boiled egg. Sounds pretty intense, but Chivito with a side of fries is sure to cure your hangover. Also located on the main street of La Barra.

La Linda: Located in Manantiales off the main strip, this is one of the hottest restaurants right now to have a glass of white wine and grab a bite to eat before heading down to Bikini Beach.

Nightlife:

Prima Dama: My favorite bar in town! It’s located right of the main street of Manantiales and has a straw roof with outdoor patio that makes you feel like you have escaped reality and are in paradise. They play great music and a great starting spot before heading to a “boliche” (club).

            Sabbia: A fun bar/night club right near Cerro in La Barra.

Manantiales Point: A great bar to have drinks at if you are not looking for the club scene. It has a very beachy atmosphere located in Manantiales, just steps from Bikini Beach. Also a great place to eat some miniaturas (similar to chicken nuggets, but instead of chicken they are fried pieces of white fish—a specialty of the region).

Circus (formerly named Tequila): The best “boliche” located on the main street of La Barra. It’s only open during high season of summer (mid-December to mid-January), but this is the club that everyone who’s anyone wants to be at. Girls usually can get in free if they are dressed accordingly, men on the other hand don’t be surprised if they ask you for $100 (yes, US dollars) cover charge.

Cheesy decor, but I promise this is the most fun boliche in town!

Besos!

#explore

El Tigre

El Tigre is a region in the province of Buenos Aires located just north of the city of Buenos Aires (Capital Federal). It is a small town sits on the Delta Tigre River and is just an hour train ride outside the city. El Tigre is a great place to visit for day trips during the summer to beat the city heat by cooling off with a swim in the river.

Once you get off the train there are information centers where you can buy tickets for guided boat tours or if you are looking for something more relaxed you can purchase round-trip tickets for a public river boat shuttle that takes you to public beaches along the river—just to forewarn you, the river is by no means comparable to the Colorado River, in fact it is very murky and dirty looking because the sand underneath it is very fine and soft (like quicksand).

El Tigre is beautiful for reasons other than being picturesque. It’s beautiful for the riverboats, the cute bungalows that sit aside the river, the lifestyle and of course the people. You’d be crazy to go there and not jump in the river and play volleyball with some of the locals and visiting porteños. Many of the beaches also have access to tennis courts and outdoor BBQ pits!

On your way home from the river you must stop at the “Puerto de Frutos” which is a huge outdoor crafts fair with handmade leather goods, jewelry, mate gourds, food and of course fresh fruit. This is one of the cheaper craft markets that you can go to, but even if you don’t have a lot of extra pesos to spend it is still a fun place to window shop and absorb the culture!

El Tigre train station

One of the public beach areas

A public river boat shuttle

Argentina's ex-President Domingo Sarmiento old vacation home that has now been turned into a museum. He originally bought the house because it was encased in glass to protect it from the area's humidity. 

Besos!

What's your idea of happiness?

Mine: Get on a plane and GO!

Press play and turn up the sound.

Buenos Aires

 Buenos Aires

Bars:

Sky Bar at Hotel Pulitzer: This roof top bar is located in the Microcentre on Maipu street. This place is perfect to grab a specialty cocktail and watch the sunset.

Afternoon Rooftop Drinks

Tiki Bar: Located in Palermo Hollywood this place has reasonably priced drinks and a great location. It has a tropical and mellow atmosphere, thus is the perfect place to begin your night.

Antares: An artesian brewery located in Palermo Soho on Armenia St. They have a great happy hour (2 for 1 beers) and a lively atmosphere. My two favorite beers they serve are Barley Wine and the Imperial Stout.

Post St. Bar: Also located in Palermo Soho this bar give off hipster vibes with an upstairs outdoor balcony and lots of graffiti wall art. There is free pizza on Thursdays and this place is also known to be a couch surfer meet up spot.

Nightlife:

La Bomba de Tiempo: it is seasonal and a total tourist trap, but very fun! An outdoor rasta-style drum show very relaxed crowd with cheap huge beers

Kika: if you like sweaty and sleazy night clubs then this is the place for you. I find it dreadfully TERRIBLE!! Do not go here unless you want to be surrounded by a bunch of tourists, definitely not where the locals go.

Las Terrezas: known for their after hours on Wednesday nights, but don’t go out on normal argentine party hours it opens at 7pm and closes at 2pm.

My Top 3 Must Go “Boliches” (Clubs):

Tequila, Jet Lounge and Ferona: They are all smaller boliches that are more exclusive so you will find less tourists, fewer sleazeballs and a dance floor that is not overwhelmingly massive. Jet Lounge (locals pronounce it “shit” lounge) and Tequilla are right next to each other and are located near the domestic airport—many of the boliches are located in this area. Ferona is located in Palermo Hollywood and is just a block away from Tiki Bar.

Eats:

Dain: a café in Palermo Soho that has the most relaxing and peaceful rooftop patio with big white couches that you can lounge on all day. They have great sandwiches and salads—the jamon crudo sandwich and the chicken salad are my favorites! This was my afternoon study spot, most of the time I ended up falling asleep on the couches under the hot argentine sun!

Jamon Crudo Sandwich

The infamous white couches

Guidos: An Italian restaurant in Palermo Chico that is a favorite dinner spot among many locals. They have a brie cheese pizza that is to die for! But really you can’t go wrong with anything you order off the menu and they have a great wine selection as well. Their outdoor patio is perfect for dinner on a warm summer night.

Dada: Quite possibly my most favorite restaurant in BsAs if not the whole entire world. You must start the night with their maracuyo-blended cocktail and order the Lomo mediterano for dinner.  This restaurant is sure to change your life and give you a whole new appreciation for steak.

Olsen: The best spot for Sunday brunch in town with great cocktails. Sunday they have a set menu for ~100 pesos and it includes an appetizer, entrée and one drink. The best is to get a big group together on a sunny Sunday afternoon and head over there around 4pm to dine al fresco and reminisce about your crazy Saturday night.

Tatu Empanadas: of all the empanadas I tested this place had the best. There are several locations throughout the city and if you are feeling especially lazy they even have free delivery! The “Tatu” empanada (carne picante) is my favorite. Argentine rule of thumb: when in doubt always order the carne, it will be good no matter what.

Maru Botana: located in Belgrano this bakery has homemade cakes and tartas (similar to a quiche, but more gourmet). The portions are huge, so go with a friend and split a tarta and a cake. You are sure to leave this place satisfied!

Chicken and vegetable tarta

Dessert!!

Pani: You cannot go to this place and not order a cinnamon roll. This café looks like a shabby chic café straight off of pinterest. A great place to get a coffee and a small bite to eat.

La Raya and La Dorita: both these restaurants are “parillas”, which is what they refer to as steak houses. You may have many fellow tourists tell you about a place called La Cabrera, but that is the tourist version of La Raya and La Dorita. If you want to go to a local steak house then go to either of these restaurants. My two recommened cuts to order are the lomo (filet minon) and ojo de bife (ribeye).

It's hard not to eat and drink your way through Buenos Aires with all the amazing restaurants, bars and cafes! The list goes on and on, but those are the must go's!

Oh and once you are done eating and drinking here is a list of my favorite sites to see in Buenos Aires:

• Casa Rosada: the President’s house.
• La Boca: A colorfully painted area where you can watch (and learn) street tango and purchase souveniers.
• Puerto Madero: The Port, where you will find the famous Puente de la Mujer (a bridge) that symbolizes a man and woman dancing tango.
• Recoleta Cemetario: Unlike and cemetery you have ever seen! Tombstones for whole entire families reside in little houses, each of which were custom built. Evita Peron is barried there.
• Malba Museo: A modern art Museum.
• Tres de Febrero Parque: A great park to go for a run or rollerblade (rentals are available at the park for very cheap…I did it once and it was a great experience). Also there is a beautiful rose garden as well as a small man made lake. You can even rent paddle boats for the lake.

Besos!